বগালেক ও কেওক্রাডং এর মধুর স্মৃতি

বগালেক ও কেওক্রাডং এর মধুর স্মৃতি

কেওক্রাডং পাহাড় থেকে নেমে এসে দার্জিলিং পাড়ায় রাত কাটিয়ে গতকাল ভোরে ঢাকায় পৌঁছেছি, পিছনে পড়ে রয়েছে গত তিনদিনের স্মৃতি; পাহাড়ি বাচ্চার ফুটবল খেলা, কুকুরের সাথে তার গড়াগড়ি খাওয়া, খাঁচার ভিতর ময়নার পেঁপে খাওয়া আর পাহড়ি বাচ্চার মোবাইলে বেবি কার্টুন দেখাসহ আরো অনেক কিছুই ক্ষণে ক্ষণে মনে উঁকি মারছে।

বগালেক-কেওক্রাডং ট্যুরে নতুন বিড়ম্বনা যোগ হয়েছে; সেটি হচ্ছে ফোর হুইলার চান্দের গাড়ির কেওক্রাডং পাহাড়ে ওঠা। শখের পাহাড়িরা চান্দের গাড়িতে উঠতে গিয়ে রাস্তার যে হাল করে দেয়, তাতে ট্রেকারদের সাড়ে বারোটা! যেহেতু মাটির রাস্তা, সেহেতু ধুলা খেতে খেতে পথ চলতে হয়, আর ওদিকে, গাড়িওয়ালাদের চিল চলতে থাকে; ট্রেকারদের কিছুটা অসহায়ও বোধ হয় বৈকি!

ইদানিং জোরেশোরেই কথা উঠছে বান্দরবানের গুপ্ত সৌন্দর্যগুলোকে ইট-কাঠ-পাথরের খেলায় উন্মুক্ত করার বিরুদ্ধে; প্রকৃতিপ্রেমীরা চান, এগুলো গুপ্তই থাকুক, যার সামর্থ্যে কুলাবে, সে কষ্ট করে উন্মোচন করবে। শীতকালে বা শুকনো মৌসুমে কেওক্রাডং পর্যন্ত গাড়ি যাচ্ছে; ট্র্যাকিং এর কষ্ট যারা সহ্য করতে পারেন না, তাদের জন্য এটি বিরাট সুযোগ, একইসাথে প্রকৃতির রহস্য উন্মোচন করতে যাদের ভালো লাগে, তাদের জন্য এটি মনোবেদনার কারণ!

স্বপ্নবিলাস টিমের সাথে রওনা হয়েছিলাম গেল বৃহস্পতিবার, একুশের ছুটি মিলিয়ে টানা তিনদিন ছুটি, সারা দেশে পর্যটকের ঢল নেমেছিল; কেওক্রাডং এর হেলিপ্যাড-এ এত লোক জড়ো হয়েছিল, যা কল্পনারও অতীত।

প্রথম রাত থেকেছি বগালেকে; বগালেক পর্যন্ত পৌঁছাতে ব্যাপক হ্যাপা পোহাতে হয়েছে, অনেক বেশি চেকিং এর সম্মুখীন হতে হয় এবং সময় নষ্ট হয়। বগালেকের সৌন্দর্য দেখে মুগ্ধ হয়েছি, আমাদের কটেজ পড়েছিল একেবারে লেকের উপরে, সিয়াম দি’র কটেজ নামে যেগুলো বিখ্যাত। টয়লেটের অবস্থা সন্তোষজনক মনে হয়েছে, বগালেগে দুই দিন গোসল করেছি, সামান্য সাঁতারও কেটেছি; এখানে দাপিয়ে সাঁতার কাটা নিষেধ। 

বিকেলটা আর্মি ক্যাম্পের লেকের পাড়ের বসে গল্প করে কাটিয়েছি আর সন্ধ্যেটা লেকের আরেক পাড়ে যেখানে সুন্দর বাঁধানো ঘাট আছে, সেখানে ডিনার পর্যন্ত বসে গল্প করেছি সংগীদের সাথে। সাথে নানান গ্রুপ থেকে ভেসে আসছিল নানান সূরের গান; আকাশে ছিল আধখানা চাঁদ, এই রাত পূর্ণচাঁদের দখলে থাকলে তার সৌন্দর্য বর্ণনা করা কঠিন হতো।

ইতোমধ্যে সাব্বিরের মেয়েলি ঢং এর কথাকে অনেকেই নকল করতে শুরু করেছে; একজন বলল, গ্রুপ থেকে যে গেঞ্জি দিয়েছে, সে গেঞ্জি গায়ে না দিলে রাতের খাবার খেতে দিবে না, সে খুব টেনশন নিয়ে গায়ের গেঞ্জি পাল্টে গ্রুপের গেঞ্জি পরেছে। তবে আমার অভিজ্ঞতা বলে, এই ধরনের লোক অন্য গ্রুপে থাকলে যে পরিমাণ হেনস্তার স্বীকার হতো, তার তুলনায় সাব্বির প্রায় বেঁচে গেছে; এই গ্রুপের লোকগুলো ভালো। বার-বিকিউ এর খাবার খেয়ে সারাদিনের ক্লান্তি মেটাতে সবাই ঘুমিয়ে পড়েছে,

পরদিন নাস্তা খেয়ে সবাই রওনা হয়ে গেছি দার্জিলিং পাড়ার উদ্দেশ্যে; আমরা সেখানেই রাত্রিযাপন করব। নানান চড়াই উৎরাই পেরিয়ে চলছি আমরা, সাথে সর্বক্ষণ আনন্দ দিয়ে চলেছেন নেসার ভাই আর মুরুব্বি হিসেবে আছেন ফারুক ভাই; রাস্তা সামনে পড়েছে আর আমরা খাইনি, এমন জিনিসের মধ্যে কেবল গেন্ডারি ছিল; আর কিছু ছাড়িনি।

দার্জিলিং পাড়ায় পৌঁছে গেছি তিন ঘন্টায়; পৌঁছেই মনটা ভরে আনন্দে গেছে। আগে থেকেই এর পরিচিতি ছিল, বাংলাদেশের সবচেয়ে পরিচ্ছন্ন গ্রাম হিসেবে; বাস্তবেও তাই, অত্যন্তু পরিপাটি করে সাজানো, এর প্রান্ত থেকে সহজেই দেখা যায় আকর্ষণের কেন্দ্রে থাকা কেওক্রাডং।

দুপুরে ব্যাম্বোচিকেন দিয়ে ভরপেট খেয়ে একচোট ঘুমিয়ে নিলাম; লোকেরা নিন্দা করছিল, আমার নাকি নাক ডাকে, অথচ তারা জানে না, আগের রাতে তাদের নাক ডাকার শব্দ আমি রেকর্ড করেছি। বিকেল চারটায় রওনা দিয়ে চারটা পঞ্চাশে আমরা স্বপ্নের কেওক্রাডং-এ পৌঁছেছি। অসম্ভব সুন্দর ভিউ পাওয়া যায় এর চূড়া থেকে, অদূরেই রয়েছে হেলিপ্যাড, লোকে লোকারণ্য সেখানে, হটাতই আর্মিদের পক্ষ থেকে একজন ডাকলেন সতর্কতামূলক ব্রিফিংয়ের জন্য, আমরা সবাই শুনলাম সেগুলো; রুমে কোন রকম মাদক সেবন করা যাবে না, বাথরুমগুলোতে সাপের উপদ্রবের বিষয়ে সতর্ক থাকতে হবে, সিগারেট খেয়ে আগুন অবশ্যই নিভিয়ে ফেলতে হবে আর সবাই মিলেমিশে থাকতে হবে এবং এক নং হেলিপ্যাডে সন্ধ্যা ছয়টার পর থাকা যাবে না।

সবাই যখন ছবি তোলায় ব্যস্ত ছিল, আমি তখন পশ্চিম পাশে একা একা বসে নির্নিমেষ তাকিয়েছিলাম, হালকা ঠাণ্ডা বাতাস শরীর স্পর্শ করে পাশ কাটিয়ে চলে যাচ্ছিল; সে এক নরম তুলতুলে অনুভূতি। সংগীসাথীদের চলে যাওয়া দেখে তাদের পিছু নিলাম, ফিরে এলাম দার্জিলিং পাড়ায়; আধো চাঁদের আলোয় বেশ খানিকক্ষণ কাটিয়ে রাতের খাবার খেয়ে ঘুমিয়ে পড়লাম।

পরদিন ভোরে উঠে ফজরের নামাজ পড়ে সূর্যোদয় দেখার আশায় দ্রুত বেরিয়ে পড়লাম; সূর্য দেখা দিল না, যেন প্রেমিকা দেখা করতে আসতে চাইছে কিন্তু নিষ্ঠুর পিতা-মাতা আসতে দিচ্ছে না, তেমন করে কুয়াশা তাকে ঘিরেই রইলো। সেই মূর্হুর্তে দার্জিলিং পাড়ার পশিমে একটা ছোট টিলা দেখলাম, সেখানে কয়েকজনকে আবিষ্কারও করলাম। দ্রুত গিয়ে সেই টিলায় উঠলাম, এখান থেকে গোটা দার্জিলিং পাড়া সুন্দর দেখা যায়; সরোবরেরে মাঝখানে যেমন পদ্ম ফুটে থাকে, তেমনি, চতুর্দিকের পাহাড়ের মাঝখানে দার্জলিং পাড়া গর্ব করে দাঁড়িয়ে রয়েছে। শীতল হাওয়া বইছিল, কিন্তু আমি এর মধ্যে বসন্তের গন্ধ পাচ্ছিলাম, আমি আবারও সেই বাতাসের ঝাপটায় সিক্ত হলাম। এক পর্যায়ে নেমে পূর্ব দিকের এক পাহাড়ে গিয়ে কলার ছড়ি ও জবাসহ আরো নানান রঙের ফুল দেখতে দেখতে এক অদ্ভুত সুন্দর সকাল কাটিয়ে নাস্তা করতে এলাম।

নাস্তা সেরে আবার বগালেকে ফিরে গিয়ে সেখানে গোসল করে এবার বান্দরবানের পথ ধরলাম। রুমা বাজারে দুপুরের খাবার খেয়ে বিকেলটা মেঘলা পর্যটন কেন্দ্রে আর সন্ধ্যাটা নীলাচলে কাটিয়ে রাতের খাবার খেয়ে হানিফের বাসে উঠেছি, ভোর সাড়ে পাঁচটায় ঢাকায় নেমেছি।

পাহাড় আমাকে টানে ভীষণ; আমি জানি না কেন? পাহাড়ি এই রাস্তাগুলো পাকা হয়ে যাচ্ছে; তাতে কি আমার মন খারাপ? জানি না; আমার যেহেতু বয়স হয়ে যাচ্ছে, ভবিষ্যতে যেতে চাইলে আমার গাড়ি লাগবে, সেই হিসেব ভালো, কিন্তু পাহাড়কে আবিষ্কার করার জন্য অবশ্যই খারাপ। এসব ট্যুরে নানান ঘটনা ঘটে যার সব বর্ণনা করা যায় না, তবে তিনদিনের পুরোটা সময় জমিয়ে রাখার জন্য নেসার ভাই ওরফে ‘গুটি’ ভাই একটি বিশেষ ধন্যবাদ পেতেই পারেন। এসব ট্যুরে সবার ফিসফাস করার জন্য সাধারণত একটি জুটি থাকে, আমাদেরও ছিল; আরিফ-ফাইজা জুটি,তারা দু’জনই প্রাণোচ্ছল ও প্রকৃতিপ্রেমী। 

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