সিলেট ভ্রমণ – ১

সিলেট ভ্রমণ - ১

মালনীছড়া চা বাগান সম্বন্ধে মালীকে জিগ্যেস করতেই তিনি জানালেন, এটি এত বড় যে আপনি সারাদিন ঘুরেও শেষ করতে পারবেন না, তাই সে রিস্ক নিলাম না; কিছুদূর ঘুরে বেরিয়ে এলাম। টিলার পর টিলা ধরে একই সবুজের সমারোহ; শুক্রবারে কাজ বন্ধ থাকে বলে চা পাতা তোলা দেখতে পারলাম না।

৭৭ বা ৭৮ এ যখন বাবা-মা’র সাথে প্রথম সিলেটে এসেছিলাম, সে সময়ের স্মৃতি আমার মনে নেই; ৯৫’-এ যখন দ্বিতীয়বারের মত সিলেট আসি, তার কিছু স্মৃতি মনে আছে। তখন এই সিলেট শহরের প্রবেশদ্বার খ্যাত ঐতিহাসিক সুরমা ব্রীজ তথা কীন ব্রিজটি (Keane Bridge) পার হয়েই এসেছিলাম, এবার আর তা পারা গেল না; এ ব্রীজে যাত্রীসহ রিক্সা তুলতে হলে পিছন থেকে একজনকে ঠেলতে হয়, এ দৃশ্য আমার এখনো মনে আছে! ১৯৩৬ সালে আসামের গভর্ণর মাইকেল কীনের নামানুসারে এটি চালু হয়। এখন এটিতে কেবল রিক্সা, বাই-সাইকেল, মটর সাইকেল এবং সিএনজি অটো চলতে দেয়। এরপরও এটি ভূমিকম্পের মত কাঁপতে থাকে। এই ব্রীজের অনতিদূরে তৈরি হওয়া কাজীর বাজার ব্রীজ দিয়ে শহরে প্রবেশ করেছি (২৫.০৯.২০)।

সুরমা ব্রীজের গোড়ায়, শহর অংশে রয়েছে প্রাচীন এক ঘড়িঘর, এটি আলী আমজাদের ঘড়িঘর নামে পরিচিত। সিলেটের কুলাউড়ার জমিদার আলী আহমদ ওনার ছেলের নামে ১৮৭৪ সালে এটি নির্মান করেন! এখানে যখন পৌঁছেছি, ততক্ষণে এক পশলা বৃষ্টি হয়ে গেছে; তবে আঁধার তখনো রয়ে গেছে।

কীন ব্রীজে যখন উঠেছি, তখন সূর্য প্রাণপণ চেষ্টা করছে মেঘ কেটে বেরিয়ে আসতে, ঠিক সেই মূহুর্তে সুরমা নদীতে এক সুন্দর দৃশ্যের অবতারনা হয়। ঘড়িঘরের উল্টোদিকে সিলেট সার্কিট হাউজ, সুরমা নদীর পাড়ে দর্শনার্থীদের জন্য বাসার জন্য চেয়ার রেখেছে অনেক চটপটি ও ফুচকার দোকান।

শাহজালাল বিজ্ঞান ও প্রযুক্তি বিশ্ববিদ্যালয় দেখার সাধ ছিল অনেকদিনের, গেটে গিয়ে ফিরে আসতে হলো; করোনার জন্য ভিতরে প্রবেশ নিষিদ্ধ! বৃষ্টির মধ্যেই গেটে দাঁড়িয়ে এর ভিতরের লম্বা রাস্তার একখানি ছবি তুললাম; কবরের নীরবতা বিরাজ করছে এখন সেখানে।

শাহজালাল (রহঃ) এর দরগার গেটের বামেই পড়ে কেন্দ্রীয় মুসলিম সাহিত্য সংসদ। এটি উপমহাদেশের অন্যতম প্রাচীন একটি সামাজিক ও সাংস্কৃতিক সংগঠন; এটি বই, ম্যাগাজিন শিলালিপি ইত্যাদির সব থেকে বড় বেসরকারি সংগ্রহশালা; যার অনেক কিছুই ১৩শ শতাব্দীর! খুব ইচ্ছে থাকলেও এখানে প্রবেশ করার সময় পাইনি। 

শাহী ঈদগাহ দেখতে যখন গেছি, তখন মাগরিবের আজান হয়ে গেছে। নামাজ পড়ে যখন ঈদগাহের ময়দানে নেমেছি, ততক্ষণে অন্ধকার পুরোপুরি ঘিরে ধরেছে, আলোর স্বল্পতা সেখানে একটি ঘুটঘুটে পরিবেশ তৈরি করেছে। একটি সুউচ্চ মিনার রয়েছে এখানে,অনেকটা মক্কা-মদিনার মসজিদের মিনারের মত। রয়েছে একটি পুকুর, বিশাল এই ঈদগাহের আয়তন। এখানে ইমাম যেখান থেকে নামাজ পড়ান, সেখানে যেতে হলে অনেকগুলো সিঁড়ি ভেংগে যেতে হয়, গ্যালারির মত সারি করে অনেকের একসাথে বাসার ব্যবস্থাও আছে সেখানে। সন্ধ্যার আঁধারে ছেলেমেয়েদের মিলিত কন্ঠস্বর ভেসে এলো কানে; আমি দ্রুত স্থান ত্যাগ করলাম।

যাত্রা ভংগ করার আগে বিখ্যাত পানসী রেস্টুরেন্টে গেলাম; সে এক এলাহী কান্ড! মানুষ কম্পিটিশন দিয়ে নানান পদের খাবার খাচ্ছে; রয়েছে জুস কর্ণার, নান কর্ণার এবং ভাত-বিরিয়ানির আলাদা ব্যবস্থা। গত রাতারগুল ট্যুরে পানসীর চিকেন বিরিয়ানি খাইয়েছিল, তাই এদের খাবারের স্বাদ সম্পর্কে আমার ধারণা ছিলই।

একটি অদ্ভুত বিষয় লক্ষ্য করেছি, শুক্রবারে এখানে অনেককিছু বন্ধ থাকে; সম্ভবতঃ মার্কেটও। একটি লাইফ জ্যাকেট কেনার জন্য মহাজনপট্টিতে ফোন দিয়েছিলাম; বলল, শুক্রবারে মার্কেট বন্ধ থাকে।

এ লেখা যখন লিখছি (২৬.০৯.২০), তখন অঝর ধারায় বৃষ্টি হচ্ছে; বৃষ্টির ঝনঝনানি ছোটবেলার কথা মনে করিয়ে দিচ্ছে। আমি ওয়েদার ফোরকাস্ট দেখেই এসেছিলাম, শনি-রবি টানা দুদিন বৃষ্টি হবার সম্ভাবনা আছে, তবু আমাকে আসতেই হতো, আমি কাজে এসেছি; এ সারা মাস কাজের প্রয়োজনেই ছুটে বেড়িয়েছি! আজ সন্ধ্যায় আমার ছুটি হবে; সিলেটের বিখ্যাত বৃষ্টি যদি দয়া করে একটু বিরতি দেয়,তবে ফেরত যাবার আগে এ নয়নজোড়া আরো খানিকটা তৃপ্ত করে নিতে চাই।

পরিশেষঃ আমি সবসময়ই চেষ্টা করি যে কোন ধরনের আবর্জনা যেখানে সেখানে না ফেলতে, আপনারাও ফলো করুন; ভোলাগঞ্জে এমন দৃশ্য দেখেছি, খুব কষ্ট লেগেছে, সে বয়ান আরেকদিন।

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