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এইভাবে ৪/৫ বার ঘুম ভাঙ্গলো; একেবারে শেষ রাতে শুনি একজন গোংগাচ্ছে। আমি জিগ্যেস করলাম, ভাই, বেশী খারাপ লাগতেছে? গোংগাতে গোংগাতেই বললেন, না ভাই। রাত্রিবেলা ইমোটিল ক্যাপসুল খেয়ে নিয়েছিলাম যেন টয়লেট না চাপে; এই ঠান্ডায় টয়লেট করে পানি ব্যবহার করা যাবে না। কালকে দুপুরে এমনিতেই এনাস্থেশিয়া হয়ে গেছিল।
যাই হোক, কোনরকমে নাজা পড়ে আবার উপরের দিকে যাত্রা করলাম সানরাইজ হোটেলের ছাদে যাবার আশায়। ইতোমধ্যে প্রায় সবাই উঠে পড়েছে; কলকাতার ও ইউরোপের ট্যুরিস্টদের দেখা গেল। সান্দাকফুতে একটা ভিউ পয়েন্ট আছে, অনেকেই সেই পাহাড়টার উপর উঠে গেছে; এটাই এই অঞ্চলের সবচেয়ে উঁচু জায়গা।
আমরা সেই পথে গেলাম না; সানরাইজ হোটেলের ছাদ থেকেই অপেক্ষা করতে লাগলাম মোহনীয় সূর্যোদয়ের। আজ আকাশ পরিষ্কার, ভালো দৃশ্য দেখা যাবে, বোঝাই যাচ্ছে। যখন এখানে আসছিলাম, তখন গোংগানো ভাইয়ের অবস্থা খারাপ। ধীরে ধীরে এটি খারাপতর হতে লাগলো।
এরই মাঝে সূর্য উঁকি দিতে শুরু করেছে; সে এক অভাবনীয় দৃশ্য। ডানে বামে হস্ত প্রসারিত করে রাজকীয় ভঙ্গিতে সূয্যিমামার আবির্ভাব ঘটছে। এই দৃশ্য কেবল চোখে দেখতে হয়। এতক্ষণ কাঞ্চনজঙ্ঘা দেখা যাচ্ছিল সাদা, এখন ধীরে ধীরে লালচে হতে শুরু করেছে। সূর্যের উল্টোদিক থেকে এভারেস্ট রেঞ্জ দৃষ্টিগোচর হতে শুরু করেছে।
এখানে একটা দ্বন্দ ও ধন্দ সবসময়ই কাজ করে; তা হলো, এক্সাক্টলি কোনটা কাঞ্চনজঙ্ঘা? আর ওদিকে কোনটা এভারেস্ট, কোনটা মাকালু? এভারেস্ট রেঞ্জে প্রায় সমান উচ্চতার ৮/৯ টি পাহাড় আছে; এর মধ্যে কোনটা এভারেস্ট, সেটি অভিজ্ঞ লোক ছাড়া বোঝার উপায় নেই। আমরা যেটিকে এভারেস্ট ভেবে উত্তেজিত হচ্ছিলাম, সেটি আসলে ছিল মাকালু। এভারেস্টও হালকাভাবে দেখা গেছে, তবে অন্যগুলো দেখাগেছে তুলনামূলক ভালোভাবে।
প্রাথমিক উত্তেজনা কমে এলে আমরা ছাদ থেকে রেস্টুরেন্টে নেমে এলাম। প্রথমে ধারণা ছিল, এরা যেহেতু ওয়াইফাই এর জন্যও টাকা নেয়, বোধহয় ছাদে উঠে সূর্যোদয় দেখতেও টাকা নেয়; না, তারা তা করল না। এখানে ব্রেকফাস্টের অর্ডার কালকে দিয়ে গিয়েছিলাম; পুরি, চনার ডাল আর ডিম মামলেট। চা/কফি ফ্রি, যে যা খেতে পারে।
নীচে নামতেই দেখি আমাদের সেই সদস্য দূর্বল হয়ে হাত পা ছড়িয়ে নেতিয়ে গেছে। এরই মধ্যে হেল্প করার জন্য কলকাতার লোকেরা এগিয়ে এসেছে। পঞ্চাশোর্ধ এক মহিলা তো সেই যত্ন শুরু করেছে। কেউ কর্পূর দিচ্ছে, কেউ লবণ-পানি দিচ্ছে, এরই মধ্যে আমি আর আহসান ভাই গাড়ী খুঁজতে বেরিয়েছি। যত দ্রুত পারা যায়, তাকে নিয়ে নামতে হবে।
ফালুট না হোক, অন্ততঃ আল পর্যন্ত যাবার যে ইচ্ছা আপেল ভাই আর তানজিল ভাইয়ের ছিল, সে আশায় একেবারে গুড়েবালি। কলকাতার একজন গাইড বলছিলেন, এত উচ্চতায় এসে হটাত করে কখনোই মদ খেতে হয় না। সে যাই হোক, গাড়ির ড্রাইভারকে নানানভাবে খুঁজে এসে দেখি অসুস্থ সংগী দাঁড়িয়ে একটু করে কথা বলছেন। কলকাতার ভদ্রমহিলা কলাকাতাঁর টোনে বলছেন, দেখেছেন, আপনাদের লোককে কেমন দাঁড় করিয়ে দিয়েছি!
এ পর্যায়ে হয়ত আরো বেশ কিছুক্ষণ থাকা যেত, কিন্তু ওদিকে আরেক বিপত্তি ঘটে গেছে। ড্রাইভার তাদের সমিতির থ্রেট খেয়ে এসে বলছে, এক্ষণ রওনা দিতে হবে। তাঁর রাগ দেখে এ কথার আর অন্যথা করার সাহস কারো হলো না।
(চলবে)
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