সৌদি আরবের গরম অসহনীয়, ৪৮ ডিগ্রিতে টেম্পারেচার হরদম ওঠে। সাধারণত যোহর আর আসর খোলা ময়দানে পড়তাম, ছাতা নিয়ে গিয়ে দাঁড়িয়ে থাকতাম, ইকামাত শুরু হলে ছাতা বন্ধ করে জায়নামাজ বিছিয়ে নামাজে দাঁড়িয়ে যেতাম; একদিন যোহরের নামাজ পড়ে আসার সময় স্ক্রিনে দেখি টেম্পারেচার ৪৮ ডিগ্রি, তার পরদিনই আসরের নামাজের পর দেখি টেম্পারেচার ৫০ ডিগ্রি! এরকম টেম্পারেচারে মনে হয় যেন গায়ে আগুনের হল্কা পড়ছে। পায়ে শুধু স্যান্ডেল থাকলে সূর্যের আলো পিচে পড়ে রিফ্লেকটেড হয়ে যখন পায়ে লাগে, মনে হয় যেন কেউ পায়ে কয়লা ঢেলে দিয়েছে। মাগরিবের দিকে টেম্পারেচার ৩৮ ডিগ্রির মত হয় এবং এশার দিকে তা ৩৩ ডিগ্রিতে নেমে আসে। ওখানকার হিউমিডিটি ৪৫-৪৬ ডিগ্রি বলে বেঁচে থাকা যায়, আমাদের দেশের মত ৮৪ বা ৮৬ ডিগ্রি হলে বেঁচে থাকা কঠিন হতো!
এই তাপমাত্রার আরেকটি বড় অসুবিধা হলো, সমস্ত মক্কা-মদিনার পানি অত্যন্ত গরম হয়ে থাকে। এই গরম পানি দিয়ে ওযু-গোসল ও যাবতীয় কাজ করতে হয়। দাঁতে দাঁত চেপে মক্কার পানিতে গোসল করেছি কিন্তু মদিনার পানি এবার গায়ে লাগানো যায় নি; এত গরম! ফলে পানি আগে বালতিতে অনেকক্ষণ রেখে ঠান্ডা করে নিতে হয়েছে। এমনকি ভোররাতের দিকেও পানি গরম থাকে তবে সহনীয় পর্যায়ে থাকে।
গরম থেকে কিছুটা স্বস্তি দেয়ার জন্য সৌদি সরকার নানান ধরণের ব্যবস্থা গ্রহণ করেছে। রাস্তায় রাস্তায় মেশিনের সাহায্যে ঠান্ডা পানির ছিটা দেয়ার ব্যবস্থা করেছে, হাইস্পিড ফ্যানের মাধ্যমে সেই পানি সারা রাস্তায় ছড়িয়ে দেয়ার ব্যবস্থা আছে। এছাড়াও আছে রাস্তার পাশে অনেক পানি ছিটানোর কল বা পাইপ যেগুলো পিলারের মাথায় লাগানো থাকে।
মক্কা-মদিনায় নামাজ হয় আউয়াল বা প্রথম ওয়াক্তে; এখানে যোহরের নামাজ হয় ১২.৩০-এ, আসর ৩.৪৫-এ, মাগরিব আজানের পরপর, এশা ৭.৩০-এ। চমৎকার একটি নিয়ম আছে এখানে, রাত সাড়ে তিনটায় একটি আজান হয়, জনশ্রুতি আছে এটি তাহাজ্জুদের আজান যদিও আসলে এটি রাসুল (সাঃ) এর সময় থেকে মদিনায় প্রচলিত একটি নিয়ম মেনে দেয়া হয় কারণ, তাহাজ্জুদের সময় শুরু হয় আরো আগে; আর রাত সাড়ে চারটায় আরেকটি আজান হয় ফজরের নামাজের জন্য।
মুসলিমদের মধ্যে কত কিসিমের নামাজ হওয়া সম্ভব, তার নমুনা মেলে মক্কায়! হানাফি, সালাফি ছাড়াও আরো অনেক তরিকার নামাজ হয়; কেউ কেউ নিয়ত করে হাত না বেঁধে দাঁড়িয়ে থাকে, একজনকে দেখলাম কেবল দাড়িয়েই থাকেন কোন রুকু-সিজদা নেই, তাকে অসুস্থও মনে হয় নি। এসব নিয়ে সেখানে কেউ মাথা ঘামায় না, কেউ বলে না যে আপনি এভাবে নামাজ পড়লে এরপর আর ক্বাবায় আসবেন না! তবে আশার কথা, বিতর্কিত নামাজের নিয়ম যারা মানেন, তাদের হার ১% এর বেশী নয়।
বেশ ক’জন ইমাম আছেন ক্বাবায়, প্রত্যেকেরই কন্ঠ সুললিত। আব্দুর রহমান আস-সুদাইস সাহেবের নামাজ পেয়েছি সম্ভবত সাতবার; প্রাণ ভরে যায় তার তিলাওয়াতে। এতটা আবেগ আর কারো তিলাওয়াতে আসে না। অনেক নামাজ হয় ছোট ছোট সুরা দিয়ে, জুম্মার নামাজ হয়েছে আলামতারা এবং লিইয়াইফি’র মত ছোট সুরা দিয়ে। জামাত মোটামুটি সংক্ষিপ্ত করা হয়, এতে মানুষের কষ্ট কমে। হজ্জের সময় প্রত্যেক নামাজের জামাতের পর জানাযার নামাজ হয়; সবসময়ই কোন না কোন লাশ আসতেই থাকে।
ভারতীয় উপমহাদেশের তিলাওয়াতের উচ্চারণ অত্যন্ত চমৎকার, ঠিক সৌদিদের মত; যেমনটা অনেক আরবী বা অন্যান্য দেশের মানুষেরা পারে না। এখানে আরবী বলতে যাদের বুঝিয়েছি, তাদের ত্বক ফর্সা তবে রোদে পোড়া, সঠিক দেশ আন্দাজ করা কঠিন। তাওয়াফের ময়দানে তাদের উচ্চারণগুলো অদ্ভুত শোনায়; আল্লাহ্ তাদের কবুল করুন।
ইন্দোনেশিয়ানদের চেয়ে ভদ্র জাতি দুনিয়াতে আছে কিনা আমার জানা নেই; জাপানিদের কথা সারাজীবন শুনে এসেছি কেউ ইন্দোনেশিয়ানদের কথা বলেনি! পুরুষ মহিলা নির্বিশেষে তাদের আচার-আচরণ, হাসিমাখা মুখ, শান্ত-সৌম্য অভিব্যক্তি, স্যাক্রিফাইজিং মনোভাব আর কোন জাতির মধ্যে দেখা যায় না। তারা প্রায় সবাই বেঁটেখাটো, তাদের ইউনিটি ছিল চোখে পড়ার মত। মহিলারা প্রায় সবাই একই ডিজাইনের সাদা রঙের হিজাব পরে চলাফেরা করে এবং পুরুষরা পরে লুঙ্গি ও ফতুয়া। আমাদের দেশের চাচারা যে প্রথম দু-চারদিন যাওয়ার পর পাজামা ছেড়ে লুঙ্গি পরে মক্কা কাঁপিয়ে দিলেন, তার বড় অনুপ্রেরণা তারা পেয়েছেন এদের কাছ থেকে!
মক্কার রাস্তায় রাস্তায় গোটা হজ্জের মৌসুমে সৌদিয়ানরা হাজী সাহেবদেরকে পানি, খেজুর ও জুস ফ্রি দিয়ে থাকেন। সাধারণত জামাত শেষে মুসল্লীদের ফিরতি পথে তারা এগুলো বিলি করে থাকেন। এসব পরিস্থিতিতে মানুষের, বিশেষতঃ বাংলাদেশী হাজীদের কাড়াকাড়ি থাকে চোখে পড়ার মত; সে আলোচনা আরেকদিন।
মক্কায় সবচেয়ে নীচু মানের কাজগুলো করেন বাংলাদেশীরা; বিশেষতঃ প্রখর সূর্যের আলোর নীচে দাঁড়িয়ে ঘন্টার পর ঘন্টা রাস্তা ক্লিনিং এর দায়িত্বটা বাংলাদেশীদের ভাগেই পড়ে এবং সংখ্যায় তারা অনেক। নামাজে আসা-যাওয়ার পথে অনেকেই তাদের এক দুই রিয়াল করে সাহায্য করে থাকেন। তাদেরও চোখেমুখে থাকে দান পাওয়ার আকাঙ্ক্ষা, আগ্রহ নিয়ে তাকিয়ে থাকেন কে কখন পকেটে হাত দিচ্ছে; সাধারণত বাংলাদেশীরা তাদের কোন সাহায্য করেন না এবং দেশী লোকদের চোখে চোখ পড়লে তারা চোখ সরিয়া নেন। মা, বাবা, ভাই, বোন, স্ত্রী-পুত্র-কন্যা ছেড়ে তারা সৌদি আরবে কি করছেন, তা বাড়ির কেউ কোনদিন জানতে পারবে না; ফেরার সময় নিয়ে যাওয়া বিদেশী সাবান আর আট কেজি কম্বলের নীচে চাপা পড়ে যায় সমস্ত কষ্ট আর দীর্ঘশ্বাস!
| (২০১৮ সালের লেখা; একেবারেই ব্যক্তিগত অনুভূতি, কাউকে আঘাত উদ্দেশ্য নয়। এবার বা ভবিষ্যতে যারা হজ্জ করবেন, তাদের উপকারে আসতে পারে ভেবে পুনঃপ্রকাশ। আল্লাহ আমাকে সকল প্রকার রিয়া থেকে মুক্ত রাখুন; আমীন।) |
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