আয়া সোফিয়া মসজিদের পুরো ফ্লোর জুড়ে টুইল রঙের কার্পেট মোড়ানো; যথারীতি বর্ণিল আলোকচ্ছটা আছে গোটা মসজিদজুড়ে। কার্পেটের শুরুতেই ব্যরিকেড দেবার অনেকগুলো ফ্লেক্সিবল পার্টিশন আছে, এখনো ব্যরিকেড দেয়া শুরু হয়নি।
ইস্তাম্বুলে মক্কা-মদিনার নিয়মে আউয়াল ওয়াক্তে নামাজ হয়, অর্থাৎ আজানের পরপরই নামাজে দাঁড়িয়ে যায় আর সুন্নাতে মুয়াক্কাদা থাকলে সেটুকু পড়ার সুযোগ দেয়া হয়। আজানের কিছুক্ষণ পর মুসল্লীরা প্রবেশ করলে ব্যরিকেড পড়ে যায়। যারা নামাজ পড়বে না বা যারা অমুসলিম, তারা ব্যরিকেডের বাইরে অবস্থান করে এবং নামাজ শেষ হলে ঢুকে পড়ে।
এখানে ছোট ছোট করে অনেকগুলো জুতা রাখার বাক্স আছে; আমি একটাতে জুতা রেখে তার নাম্বার মুখস্থ করে নিলাম। নরম কার্পেটের উপর দিয়ে সামনে এগোতেই দেখি মুসল্লীরা সুন্নাত নামাজ পড়ছে; আমি মুসাফির হিসেবে সুন্নাতে না দাঁড়িয়ে কিছু ছবি তুললাম ও ভিডিও করলাম; কন্ঠসহ ভিডিও জীবনে এই প্রথম, কথা জড়িয়ে যাচ্ছিল। জামাত আরম্ভ হলে গিয়ে জামাতে দাঁড়ালাম।
আয়া সোফিয়ার ভিতরে ঢুকেই একটা জিনিস খুঁজছিলাম, সেটা হলো, এমন পড়েছি যে আয়া সোফিয়ার ভিতরে এখনো যীশুর ছবি ও অন্যান্য ছবি আছে যেগুলো নামাজের সময় ঢেকে দেয়া হয়, সেগুলি সত্যিই আছে কিনা; আসলে তেমন কিছু মসজিদের ভিতরে নেই, এটি একটি ভুয়া কথা।
এক টুকরো ইতিহাসঃ
৫৩২ থেকে ৫৩৭ খৃষ্টাব্দে ক্ষমতাশীন শাসকের দরবার হিসেবে নির্মাণ করা হয় এই আয়া সোফিয়া। একাদশ শতাব্দীতে ক্যাথলিক খৃষ্টানরা দখল করে আয়া সোফিয়াকে গির্জায় রুপান্তর করে। কালের ধারাবাহিকতায় ১৪৫৩ সালে অটোম্যান সম্রাট ফাতিহ সুলতান কন্সট্যান্টিনোপল দখল করে আয়া সোফিয়াকে মসজিদে রূপ দেন।
আয়া সোফিয়া মসজিদের ফটকে একটি বোর্ডে ইংরেজি এবং তুর্কি ভাষায় লেখা আছে স্থাপনাটির ঐতিহ্য। সেখানে বলা হয়েছে, ৫৩২ সালে সম্রাট প্রথম জাস্টিনিয়ানের আদেশে আয়া সোফিয়া নির্মাণ শুরু হয়েছিল। তখন ইস্তাম্বুল শহরের নাম ছিল কনস্টান্টিনোপল, যা ছিল বাইজেন্টাইন সাম্রাজ্যের রাজধানী। যাকে পূর্ব রোমান সাম্রাজ্যও বলা হয়। এটির নির্মাণ শেষ হয় ৫৩৭ সালে। এখানে ছিল অর্থডক্স চার্চের প্রধানের অবস্থান। বাইজেন্টাইন সাম্রাজ্যের রাজকীয় অনুষ্ঠান, রাজার অভিষেক ইত্যাদি অনুষ্ঠিত হতো এখানেই।
প্রায় ৯০০ বছর ধরে আয়া সোফিয়া ছিল পূর্বাঞ্চলীয় অর্থডক্স খ্রিস্টান ধর্মের কেন্দ্রবিন্দু। অবশ্য মাঝখানে ত্রয়োদশ শতাব্দীতে একটি সংক্ষিপ্ত কালপর্ব ছাড়া, যখন চতুর্থ ক্রুসেডের সময় ইউরোপের ক্যাথলিকরা এক অভিযান চালিয়ে কনস্টান্টিনোপল দখল করে নেয়। তারা আয়া সোফিয়াকে একটি ক্যাথলিক ক্যাথেড্রালে পরিণত করেছিল। পরে ১৪৫৩ সালে সুলতান দ্বিতীয় মেহমেদের অটোমান সাম্রাজ্যের দখলে চলে যায় কনস্টান্টিনোপল। এর নতুন নাম হয় ইস্তাম্বুল। চিরকালের মত অবসান হয় বাইজেন্টাইন সাম্রাজ্যের।
১৯১৮ সালে প্রথম বিশ্বযুদ্ধ শেষ হলে অটোমান সাম্রাজ্য পরাজিত হয়। বিজয়ী মিত্রশক্তিগুলো তাদের ভূখণ্ডকে নানা ভাগে ভাগ করে ফেলে। তবে ওই সাম্রাজ্যের অবশেষ থেকেই জাতীয়তাবাদী তুর্কি শক্তির উত্থান হয়। তারা প্রতিষ্ঠা করে আধুনিক তুরস্ক। তুরস্কের প্রতিষ্ঠাতা এবং ধর্মনিরপেক্ষ প্রজাতন্ত্রের প্রথম প্রেসিডেন্ট কামাল আতাতুর্কের নির্দেশে আয়া সোফিয়াকে একটি জাদুঘরে পরিণত করা হয়। তখন এক আইনে ভবনটিতে ধর্মীয় প্রার্থনা নিষিদ্ধ করা হয়। পরে ১৯৩৫ সালে আয়া সোফিয়াকে সাধারণের জন্য উন্মুক্ত করে দেওয়া হয়।
ইসলামপন্থি গোষ্ঠী এবং ধার্মিক মুসলমানরা শুরু থেকেই আয়া সোফিয়াকে আবার মসজিদে পরিণত করতে দাবি জানিয়ে আসছিলেন। এর মধ্যে ২০২০ সালের ২৪ জুলাই আয়া সোফিয়াকে জাদুঘরে পরিণত করা ঠিক ছিল না বলে রায় দেয় আদালত। পরে তুরস্কের প্রেসিডেন্ট এরদোয়ান তার এক বক্তব্যে বলেছিলেন, আয়া সোফিয়াকে জাদুঘরে পরিণত করা ছিল এক বিরাট ভুল। তখন তিনি আয়া সোফিয়াকে মসজিদ বানানোর এক আদেশে সই করেন। ২০২০ সালের ১০ জুলাই ৮৬ বছর পর আয়া সোফিয়ায় আজান দিয়ে নামাজ আদায় করেন মুসল্লিরা।
শেষ কথাঃ বের হবার রাস্তা দিয়ে বেরোতে গিয়ে মানুষের জটলা দেখে তাকিয়ে দেখি, এই দরজার উপরে এখনও একটি ছবি আঁকা আছে; ধারণা করি এটি মাতা মেরির কোলে যীশুর ছবি এবং পাশে উপবিষ্ট দুজন খাদেম বা উপদেষ্টা। বোধকরি, ঐতিহাসিক কারনেই এই ছবিটি মুছে ফেলা হয়নি।
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